Started in Louisville, Kentucky, with a trip to Lynn's Paradise Cafe for a late breakfast. I had the Homestyle Scramble: Eggs scrambled with country ham, served with fried green tomatoes and biscuits. I had not actually had fried green tomatoes before; they were fairly tasty. Lori had a sumptuous dessert for breakfast: bourbon ball french toast topped with vanilla-bourbon custard and strawberries.
I actually was not as blown away by Lynn's as I had been in 2006--perhaps I just wasn't in the right mood.
After that, we spent an hour or so exploring the Cute Little Shops™ near Lynn's.
From there, our next destination was Owensboro, Kentucky, the self-proclaimed "BBQ Capital of the world" (or perhaps I should say "a self-proclaimed capital".)
The shortest route from Louisville to Owensboro led through Indiana, and led naturally to a detour to the Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial. We didn't read all the Lincoln hagiography, but we took a nice little walk through the trees along the Twelve Stones path (which reminded us both of saints' relics). There was also a little re-enactment farm there, which was nice to see.
Country music update: Joe Nichols' I'll Wait For You is an over-the-top soppy tearjerker of a song, more maudlin than a sad puppy in the rain. I found myself getting angry at the way the song brought tears to my eyes.
Brad Paisley's "Ticks" made me laugh out loud.
In Owensboro, we found Moonlite Bar-B-Q, an excellent barbecue buffet. The barbecue specialty of Owensboro is barbecued mutton--now that I've tried it, I don't feel much need to try it again. But the ham biscuits were really excellent. I enjoyed the quirky banana salad (sliced bananas and nuts in a vinegary dressing.) And we discovered that buttermilk pie is really quite tasty. (They had an immense variety of desserts there, and I found their pie crust really wonderful--light and tasty enough to eat the crumbs that had gotten separated from filling.)
Drove on to St. Louis, Missouri that evening.
Trucking update: in a rest stop in Indiana (where we took a little nature walk through a 2-acre wetland and watched a beautiful sunset), I leafed through a copy of Trucker's Connection. In addition to articles on country music and NASCAR, the current issue also features articles on juice fasting and WiFi security.
In Indiana, we saw orange construction signs that said "SHOURDS AHEAD". I have no idea what this message means.
When we arrived in St. Louis at 10:30, we hunted up another Roadfood recommendation, Ted Drewes. (All of these Roadfood restaurants have websites now. Hole-in-the-wall shacks that don't have plumbing probably have their own websites.) It was thronged with people, even when we arrived at almost 11pm. Roadfood claims that the signature "concrete" (a milkshake) is handed out the window upside down, to demonstrate that none will spill out--ours certainly would not have survived such a test.
Finding a hotel was tricky because it was late and we were tired and hadn't picked up any coupon books in Missouri. We ended up agreeing to a high rate at a La Quinta because it claimed to have high-speed internet access in every room. Plugging in an ethernet cable to the jack in the room didn't give us a connection, though. We got moved to another room, which also didn't give us networky success. The only comfort is that a polite complaint in the morning got our room rate reduced from the $99 we'd originally accepted to $49.